By BOB CASEY
Ohio Correspondent

PAAUILO, Hawaii — Because of the entrepreneurial efforts of grower Jim Reddekopp, the relatively new commercial crop of vanilla has appeared on the Hawaiian market scene. He uses the unique volcanic soil and humid, tropical climate to grow this difficult crop – which is actually a plant in the orchid family.

Reddekopp founded the Hawaiian Vanilla Co. in 1998, becoming the first commercial producer of natural vanilla in the United States. Located along the Hamakua Coast in the northern region of the “Big Island” of Hawaii, his vanilla operation became one of the sustainable agriculture alternatives to the widely planted sugarcane after the collapse of the sugar industry during the early 1990s.

In addition to sugarcane, traditional Hawaiian crops include the pineapple and macadamia nut. Many of the agricultural companies supporting these crops, however, have left or are leaving the Islands for less costly overseas options. For Reddekopp, growing vanilla has been an answer to such challenges.

“The road to profitability has not been an easy one,” he said, adding he was blessed with having an excellent mentor on how to grow vanilla orchids.

Reddekopp received his initial training in vanilla cultivation from commercial orchid and coffee grower Tom Kadooka, who was still active in 2004 before he died at the age of 83. Kadooka began the shift from growing coffee beans to more profitable and less perishable vanilla beans in 1980, although he had been experimenting with the vanilla orchid since 1941.

Founder of the Kona Orchid Society, he is credited with being the catalyst behind the commercial vanilla enterprise in Hawaii. “Tom Kadooka gave us the inspiration to proceed with this venture,” Reddekopp said.

It was Kadooka’s initial help, along with extensive additional research and study on growing this difficult crop, that has allowed Reddekopp to continue expanding the operation. From start to finish, five years are required to grow one vanilla bean, making it one of the most labor-intensive spices – and the second most costly, next to saffron – in the world. Depending on the grade, one pound can retail for more than $1,000.

Reddekopp and his wife, Tracy, who wanted a quieter place than Honolulu to raise their family, took the risk and purchased 20 acres located on the world’s tallest volcano, Mt. Mauna Kea. The farm is near the hamlet of Portuguese-settled Paauilo.

Over the last several years, the Reddekopp’s five children (the oldest is 15) have been recruited into the daily operations. Another couple, David and Christine Young, recently joined the Hawaiian Vanilla Co.

Commercial vanilla beans come from the Vanilla Planifolia Orchid, which produces flowers from February-May. The delicate pale celadon-colored blossom blooms for only four hours one day a year. During those four hours, hand-pollination must occur if a bean is to form.

Upon successful pollination, the bean grows on the vine for eight months before its seeds are harvestable. A trained, skilled individual can pollinate 1,000 orchids per day.

“The process of hand pollination is as much of an art form as it is a skill,” Reddekopp laughingly said, noting that five children can be quite useful during such labor-intensive periods.

He tries to keep operational costs as low and as efficient as possible, often employing on-farm innovation. He has built his own raised shade-houses, necessary because of the extremely wet climate. Different manures and fish emulsions, which have been developed through trial and error, fertilize the orchids.

When possible, plant-based insecticides are used; however, Reddekopp admits that chemical-based controls are sometimes required. In the plant beds, a coconut husk soil helps maintain moisture balance. To reduce energy costs, he uses both solar and wind-generated power.

Based on his research, Reddekopp believes Hawaii is a state that has the appropriate soil, temperature, humidity and climate to grow vanilla orchids. As an agricultural enterprise, U.S. commercial vanilla production is still in its infancy, although he hopes to change that and see similar operations develop.

“This is the way that we can develop sustainable agriculture along the coast,” he said.

With the demise of Hawaii’s sugar industry, Reddekopp is hopeful that vanilla production will provide a replacement economy for displaced farmers. Because of his expertise and passion in vanilla growing, he travels extensively offering one-on-one consultation to interested parties.

He also offers 16 farm and agriculture tours around the state, for participants who first learn how the food is produced and then enjoy a gourmet meal featuring the products. He has carried this farm-tourism concept into his own company.

In recent years, the Hawaiian Vanilla Co. headquarters was rebuilt from a former mill and slaughterhouse. Through creative renovation and imagination, the facility has become a gracious welcome center and gourmet-dining place.

Registered guests are provided with a five-course luncheon created by Tracy. Meals are served in the former meatpacking room, where the old meat hooks are still used to hang the kitchen pots and pans.

Each unique course includes vanilla as an essential ingredient and is introduced with a bit of background about the preparation, as well as the farm. For example, one course included beef ravioli with stuffed herbed ricotta and goat cheeses, shredded lamb with a vanilla-mint rosemary rub, pureed carrots with honey and vanilla and pine nuts. Balsamic butter added to the overall flavoring.
Following the meal is an extensive tour of the farm. The Reddekopps have expanded it into a diversified operation to include raising animals and other crops. These organically raised meats and produce provide many of the ingredients for the luncheon meal.

Visitors may also purchase unique vanilla-related products, including individual gourmet vanilla beans, pure vanilla extract and lip balm at an on-site gift shop. Other products include estate-grown coffee, black tea and skin care lotions and creams. Each of the secondary merchandise items relates to vanilla or other Hawaiian-made products.

For more information on Reddekopp and the Hawaiian Vanilla Co., visit www.hawaiianvanilla.com online.