LICKING COUNTY, Ohio – Ohio holds a unique place in the national dairy landscape. It proudly claims the title of the nation’s number-one Swiss cheese-making state, anchored by industrial giants like Brewster Cheese and Guggisberg Cheese. Yet, just as vital to its identity is a growing, passionate community of artisan cheesemakers – small-batch processors dedicated to their craft.

At the heart of promoting this artisanal growth is the Ohio Cheese Guild. Founded nearly a decade ago, the Guild emerged in response to a changing marketplace. “The organization was created out of a need to market Ohio cheeses as international and national competitors flooded store shelves,” Ohio Cheese Guild Treasurer Tracy Enslen said. “The philosophy behind its work is simple yet powerful: ‘When the tide rises, so do all the boats.’”

By working together, Ohio’s cheesemakers could ensure that their local products stood out, even as international and national cheeses crowded store shelves. “We started with the need to market Ohio cheeses, as we were seeing an influx of other cheeses in our market,” Enslen said.

The Guild, currently supported by 11 cheesemaker members, industry suppliers, and cheese enthusiasts, focuses primarily on education and marketing. It serves as a home for shared knowledge, bringing members together to discuss matters that are “pre-competitive” and benefit everyone.

Recent educational events demonstrate this focus, including a dairy food safety day class with professional speakers and seminars on specialized topics like brine health and sensory testing to help makers identify cheese defects.

The artisan cheese story begins with milk. Enslen clarifies the distinct terminology within the dairy industry. “Producers are the farmers who generate the milk, and processors are the cheesemakers,” she said.

Cheesemakers are highly selective about the milk they use. Most bring milk in from dedicated partner farms, while others use the traditional, integrated model of being both processor and producer on-site.

Two integrated operations stand out. “Canal Junction (near Defiance, Ohio), known for its on-farm production and Sweet Grass Dairy (in Frederickstown), a family operation that serves as a one-stop shop, raising cows and making cheese, butter, and ice cream on site,” Enslen said.

The commitment to milk quality and farmer relationships is illustrated by Black Radish Creamery, which operates its facility near Granville, Ohio, and runs a specialty cheese shop in Columbus’s North Market.

Black Radish cheesemaker Rob Shield reinforces the primary rule of cheesemaking: “You can’t process good cheese from bad milk.”

For Black Radish, the foundation of their award-winning cheese is its partnership with Pine Tree Dairy in Marshallville. The milk comes from cows that carry the A2-A2 milk protein gene. “A2A2 milk has a shorter protein (actual length of protein molecule), making it easier to digest,” said Andrew Steiner, Pine Tree’s cow-side assistant and geneticist.

Pine-Tree’s herd consists primarily of Holstein cattle with a sprinkling of Brown Swiss and Jersey – an important characteristic in the cheesemaking process.

Black Radish Creamery originally sourced milk from Ayrshire cows, known for their consistency and moderate butterfat content. The switch to a mix of Jersey, Holstein and Brown Swiss cows from Pine Tree brought a significant change. “Jersey cows, for example, deliver milk with higher butterfat – around 5 percent compared to the 3 percent found in standard whole milk – while Holsteins offer higher volume,” Shield said. “When we switched, I saw about a 15 to 25 percent increase in yield across almost all of our makes. More fat means a better yield, but also richer flavor and texture.”

Black Radish Creamery gets weekly milk deliveries – typically 2,500 to 2,800 pounds – adjusting slightly for holidays or vacations. The reliability of their dedicated farm source ensures consistency, allowing the team to produce a regular rotation of aged, surface-ripened cheeses.

Seasonal changes in milk composition also impact a cheese’s flavor. “Winter milk is typically higher in fat because the cows are indoors,” Shield said. “Summer milk is lighter and grassier, with more herbaceous notes.”

Black Radish’s production focuses 100 percent on cow’s milk cheeses, with a regular rotation of aged, surface-ripened and fresh cheeses, including Camembert, wash-rind Pious Etti, cheddar curds, Raclette, and farmer’s cheese. “With clean milk and the quality we get from Pine Tree, I can set a timer and know exactly when things are going to happen – it’s extremely consistent,” Shield said.

Artisan cheesemakers operate in Ohio’s highly transitional dairy industry. Enslen, who has worked on behalf of dairy farmers for 25 years through the American Dairy Association, notes the trend of farm consolidation: “When I started... we had over 3,400 dairy farms in the state of Ohio. Now we’re down to just over 2,000, but the number of cows is the same.” This trend reflects a national shift to fewer, larger operations.

The Guild’s collaborative network provides a valuable resource for the smaller artisan makers to navigate this competitive landscape, offering a platform to share techniques and support each other’s work. The Guild also highlights the quality of Ohio’s award-winning artisans, who have achieved worldwide recognition in the quality of their cheeses.