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Michigan farm’s CSA bears fruit – and vegetables

By SARAH B. AUBREY
Indiana Correspondent

CEDAR, Mich. — Nestled in northern Michigan on the Leelanau Peninsula is an old yellow house accented by a big back porch facing shady trees, rustic barns and rural charm.

Near the tiny town of Cedar, farmers Judy Reinhardt and Jim Schwantes operate Sweeter Song Farm, a place whose owners’ personal motto is “birds, butterflies, flowers, naturally grown fruits and vegetables.”

Now in early retirement, the pair operate a fully sustainable business that, while not truly uncommon, is still unique in its approach. Sweeter Song Farm is open to all, almost all the time, by using the Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) model.

“We encourage people to feed the birds and chickens and sit by the pond,” said Schwantes. “We see the CSA as a community, and it’s to bring people together.”

With a CSA, the farm partners with members who purchase a seasonal share in its crops. CSAs are not common in the United States, with only about 1,000 in operation, but the concept was introduced 20 years ago.

“There are really no rules – CSA is just a general term that applies to a lot of different models,” Schwantes explained.

Members pay for their share of crops in advance, typically in the spring. By charging ahead, the farm is able to purchase all necessary supplies and materials for that year’s crop. Once the growing season begins (in Michigan, it’s early June), members visit the farm weekly to receive their allotment of produce.

The owners and staff grow the crops, then pick all the vegetables and place them in a box that is ready for pickup every week.

Membership lasts 20 weeks each year and the owners say crops of one share will feed two to four adults every week. Included in the membership are all of the farm’s vegetables and fruits, as well as the members’ pick of annual and perennial herbs.

A weekly feature popular with Sweeter Song’s members is the opportunity to purchase additional local products from other vendors. Those vendors can change from year to year but include natural ground beef, fair trade fresh roasted coffee, shiitake mushrooms, milk and maple syrup. Fresh eggs, flowers and bouquets are also available for purchase at a reasonable price directly from Sweeter Song Farm.

The entire experience is meant to emphasize value. “It’s really important that they get what they pay for and more,” Reinhart said.

Three types of shares are offered. The first is a regular share at a cost of $400 per year. Second, four “work shares” are offered each year to those who put in 60 hours of work each season.

“We need most of our help early with setting out plants, so we ask for 30 hours before the season begins,” Reinhart said, adding once members have put that in, they are entitled to crops in the same proportion as those who have paid for the product.

The work share owners provide another 30 hours over the season. The couple also gives five “care shares” away each year. “A care share is for someone who not only can’t afford a whole share but may also not have time to come out and work, such as single women with young families,” Reinhart noted.

Now in its seventh season, the 20 weeks last from June to October and includes two pickup days per week; members select which day they prefer to pick up. Having two days allows plenty of time to harvest crops and ensures there is enough room at the farm for parking.

In 2007, Reinhart and Schwantes met a goal of 100 shares, which puts them at near capacity for their current size. “There are actually 140 members, as quite a few split their shares,” Reinhart said.
Pickup days are pleasant afternoons, members mingling with one another while they pick herbs or purchase products from other vendors.

“It’s hard in the beginning (of the season). It’s slow because there are very few things ready besides lettuce and some other crops like scallions, carrots, turnips and garlic,” Reinhart explained.

“Any time of the week someone can be out and check on their vegetables or show other friends and family around. It’s really their farm – we want people to identify with it as a place that they see as part of their larger space,” Schwantes said.

Planting begins the second week of March in the temperature-controlled greenhouse. The earliest plants include three to four varieties of onions and leeks. In April, while still fighting upwards of 15 inches of expected snowfall, tender seedlings of lettuce and kale begin their life inside the balmy greenhouse.

More than 1,000 tomato plants and dozens of varieties of peppers and eggplant grow quickly on a heated germination table. By May, it’s time to add more onions and asparagus as well as more full-time and part-time labor.

Sweeter Song’s operation is mostly produced through manual labor. “We have a tractor, but we rarely use it,” Schwantes said, adding most crops are sown with a walk-behind seeder, because of extremely intensive planting. This method fosters maximum acreage utilization.

“A tractor would cause too much compaction,” he added.
For more crop starts, the couple use a seasonal, inexpensive hoop building of Schwantes’ own design. The hoop structures cost about $700, including the frame and plastic cover.

“Using these, we’ll add about a zone. For every layer of fabric that you put over it, you can pick up another zone each time,” Schwantes said.

Annuals such as basil, parsley, dill, and cilantro are planted as the warm days lengthen so members can pick their own supply of herbs.

Once the busy seasons of summer and fall begin, time to reflect – much less time for writing – becomes impossible to find. Reinhart stays in touch with customers through a newsletter she drafts during the calmer winter.

The first issue arrives around June 1 and includes tips for “newbies” to the CSA, as well as weekly reminders about what’s in season. She introduces readers to her other vendors, too. The website at www.csafarms.org/sweetersong farm.asp also keeps members in touch, provides a members-only recipe database and contact information so members can arrange carpooling and other activities.

Operating the farm is about education for the community and the act of farming itself.

“We’re here trying to get people to understand their food production,” Schwantes said. “It’s more about making a life than a living. As soon as you start over-mortgaging your life, you’re sure to lose your home doing this.”
7/11/2007