Weekly Ag Update

By Ned Birkey

MSU EXTENSION EDUCATOR EMERITUS - SPARTAN AG

 The National Weather Service Climate Prediction Center’s outlook through Feb. 17 is calling for a good chance for likely above normal temperature and leaning above normal precipitation. Now that two months of meteorological winter are over, the days are getting longer, the sun is getting stronger, even though Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow (he is only about 30 percent accurate). One good news of a cold winter is that the bacterial disease Stewart’s wilt may not be a problem in sweet corn as the overwintering corn flea beetle, that vectors this disease, cannot survive if the average winter temperature is below 30ºF.

One of the first scouting jobs each spring is assessing alfalfa fields (and wheat fields) for winterkill. Stand loss can be influenced by stand age, cutting management, soil pH and fertility, soil moisture and snow cover. These guidelines can help you evaluate stand health and determine the next steps if re-establishment is needed.  To determine a stem count, mark a 2‑foot-square area in the field. Count alfalfa plants before green-up, or actively growing stems over 2 inches tall after green-up. Divide your total count by two to determine the number of plants or stems present per square foot. Using a larger observation area such as a 2-foot square improves accuracy because alfalfa stand density varies widely. Repeat this process in at least three representative locations for a field average. Compare results to the thresholds listed in the chart.

In addition to plant and stem counts dig up several plants from each evaluation area and split the roots lengthwise. Healthy plants have symmetrical crowns and firm, white roots. Watch for discoloration or rot, which greatly increases the chance of plant death. If over 30 percent of sampled plants show damage and stand density is below the threshold, the stand should be terminated.

Corn and Herman Warsaw are a testament to sustainable agriculture (before IT was fashionable) and now the new buzz word, “regenerative.”  He took a run-down farm, with an established yield of 38 bushels per acre in 1941 and built it up to where he held the world record corn yield of 338 bushels per acre in 1975 and again in 1985 at 370 bushels. He focused on soil improvement, with improved organic matter, beef manure and crop residue. His soil had more water holding capacity, which he used to demonstrate by pushing his hand 2 or more inches down into the soil profile to show how loose the soil was to absorb water and allow good root growth, He also did this with a high yielding corn variety that he continued to use even after the company pulled the variety from its lineup. in narrower rows, at a higher population. He paid attention to details and made changes to adapt to his weather, management, equipment and situation.

Preparing garden soil for planting is critical for success, whether in a container or ground. Soil is the heart of most gardens: healthy soil promotes growing healthy plants, and healthy plants stand a better chance against pests and the weather. Here is an easy 3-step guide to prepare your soil, plus a few bonus tips if you’re ready to dig a little deeper.

Fall is the best time to prep your soil – whether taking a soil test, using a cover crop such as clover or adding compost or other organic materials to break down, feed the soil, and mellow into a rich, workable organic matter, or tilth, by spring. Compost (or aged manure) adds nutrients, improves drainage, and loosens compacted soil, so roots get the oxygen they need. Now that Spring is approaching, work up, loosen (till) the soil to a depth of at least 6 to 8 inches so that plant roots can grow deep and strong. For new gardens, mix 2 to 3 inches of compost into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. For established gardens, just top-dress with 1 to 2 inches of compost each year and let earthworms and microbes work it in naturally. This preserves soil structure, can improve soil texture and helps suppress weeds. Soil doesn’t need to be perfect overnight. Improving your garden soil is a season-by-season process – but each year gets better. Once the garden has built up a rich, dark, fertile soil foundation, gardening gets easier with each passing season.